10th September
The original journal entry:
Really tough. *Censored bit*. Nausea. Macho amazing. Steep rock climbs. Better after jaffa cakes. Shira camp. Caves. Sunset. Silhouette mountains. Kibo in the morning. Trees. Good hot choc. Milky way. Intro with porters. Moss fire swamp trees. Elation at camp view. Clouds down below. Clouds down below. Camera broke. Barely ate anything. Forced a cereal bar. Dodgy toilet at lunch. Bird catching things. Kisses in the sunset with wife. Dancing with Gabrielle. Seriously wanted to quit for a lot of today. Was so hard feeling ill. But could not bear the disappointment of dropping out from others. Feel so much better at camp. Pretty cold now. Feeling altitude a bit. No sleep last night (3 days). 8hrs tomorrow to Lava Tower, then down to Barrancco camp. Emotionally tough day. Climbed with Ads. Nervous for tomorrow. Stole some astrophysics from wife. Amaze views of sunset behind misty Shira. I think I can do this. But man am I scared.
Elaboration:
Ok…so this is where the memory is getting sketchy. The illness is setting in and the memory and journal entries suddenly become more unreliable than normal. Which is saying something, lets be honest.
For the record, I just sat down in the pub to write this and I’m getting so much bant from the drunk old boy next to me. Perhaps not as productive a setting as anticipated…. Entertaining though. Pub tables are at an awkward height to type at. Anyway…I digress.
We were roused somewhere around 6am. I hadn’t slept (for the third night in a row). I felt like sh*t. I was packed off to Evarest to confess my premature illness and discuss his recommended treatment. Illness and the associated remedies get weird at altitude, so we have to seek the advice of the guide team. I had already established before leaving the tent that the immodium I had DEFINITELY bought and packed was nowhere to be found in my bags. Silly pixies. (I still haven’t found it, so it was clearly stolen by the pixies…the same ones who hide odd socks…). So I had the joy of being shuffled into the breakfast tent (where everyone else was already feasting on the most amazing scrambled eggs and some….porridge….ish) with Evarest who loudly asks the whole group, over breakfast, whether anyone has any immodium. Some of these people I haven’t even had a conversation with yet. What a way to break the ice. This was one of those rare ‘wishing-the-ground-would-open-up’ moments. Luckily a lovely young man (I hope he doesn’t read that…) hastened to the rescue and the day’s walk was made far more bearable. But everyone was absolutely lovely – everyone kept an eye on each other and several people were checking on how I was feeling at every opportunity. I remember Joe being very lovely and concerned. Suspicious in hindsight.
Total food consumed this morning? About half a slice of toast and a hot chocolate. Only the weak require sustenance to climb a mountain.
When we woke this morning we had a first clear-sky view of Kibo. It was slightly less intimidating than in the half-light and shifting cloud the night before.
Today we would walk to Shira camp. The dust was one of the most memorable things about this day! I mean…there is dust…and then there is Kili. Blimey. Today’s climb was up through the moorland, and was mostly up along steep, rocky paths. The first stretch was ridiculously steep (or at least, having not yet experienced the gradient of what was still to come…it felt ridiculously steep). A lot of this was across smooth or stepped rock surfaces (interspersed with dust). You’ll see in the pictures views of us pouring with sweat and out of breath….then notice the porters behind us….and the sheer amount they are carrying. These guys leave camp quite a while after us, overtake us within a mile and beat us to the next camp with enough time to get the tents up and have dinner almost cooked. There were a surprising number of female porters. A few of the group seemed very surprised about this and asked quite a lot of questions (many being motherhood related) – I confess it wasn’t something I was expecting either!
The path wound up across another couple of ridges, and for the first time we could trace the path we were headed along by the trail of climbers snaking along the mountainside. Our hill climbing expenditure was rewarded with stunning vistas each time we stopped to catch our breath and look around. We could see Mt Meru off in the distance, poking out of a sea of cloud. It may have just been my addled brain, but the vegetation reminded me of the trees in the Fire Swamp (shame on you if this reference is lost on you).
I don’t remember an awful lot of this morning – I was already in a pretty bad way. My head was pounding, I was exhausted, I was running on empty and I felt like I was going to throw up even when after drinking water (silly nuun tablets didn’t help…).
This day I became acquainted with macho. He was stuck to my side like glue. I have a sneaking suspicion that Evarest had put him under orders to keep an eye on me. Either that or I looked about as bad as I felt (probable). Within a couple of hours the only things running through my head were how I wasn’t going to make it to Shira, let alone Kibo, and I just wanted to turn back already. I seem to vaguely remember some singing. We had a pit stop a couple of hours in, which came in a little clearing immediately after a short steep scramble up a bluff. There was a big boulder on top which most people were climbing up to for the view. I collapsed as soon as I made the clearing. I forced a cereal bar and some water, and Macho lifted my bag up, scowled at me for carrying too much weight (de ja vu, Greg?), and started bailing things out of my bag and into mine. Ironically I think what was weighing it down was the food I wasn’t eating.
Lunch was spent on a big clearing in a slight valley , where the most horrible toilet (possibly in the world) was located. Most of the huts on the mountain were ok….this one was really, truly beyond foul. I won’t go into detail. But if you ever climb the macheme route and see the loo pictured….steer clear. The couple sitting near our group were on a bizzarely luxurious trip. They had a table and chairs set up for them!!! And about three courses, including hot soup, for lunch! We were treated to a show from the local birdlife, diving down to pinch food from the tourists. I seem to recall drinking some mango juice and falling asleep on a rock. You don’t realise how cold it is until you stop moving! I also remember being nagged to eat by Ros and the porters. And almost throwing up at the prospect.
How I made the next few miles I really don’t know. Physically, I was a wreck this day. Mentally, I really, really struggled. I felt so unwell that all I wanted was to do was to turn around and go back to Arusha. But I couldn’t stomach the thought of the ‘non-judgemental’ looks of condolence I’d get from the boys if I didn’t make it up this damn hill. Especially after the West Highlands. Failure was not an option as far as my pride was concerned. Macho really helped. Everytime I was struggling to pull myself up a rock he was at my elbow, giving me a shove. I was at the front of the group with Ads for most of the way at lunch. I was missioning it because I needed to be closer to the next camp, closer to the sleeping bag, and not at the back playing catch-up. There was one very fun stretch, not long before we hit Shira, when the guides took our poles and we were scrambling up what was possibly the equivalent of a mountain-goat path – hauling ourselves up steep, narrow rocky bits. Once we reached the top of this we could see the camp, and it was a gentle downhill to reach it. I cannot describe the elation I felt on seeing this camp! The end was nigh! (Ignore the fact that we still have several more days of this). I pretty much flew down this slope to meet Gabrielle, throw my daysack into the tent and collapse with relief. It is probably a testament to what altitude can do to one’s head, but I felt instantly so much better on reaching the camp.
A combination of the relief of the day’s walk being over, the prospect of sleeping and the unbelievable views suddenly fixed my internal melodrama enough that I was able to eat something. And it is amazing how much better two squashed jaffa cakes can make a girl feel. Finally irrefutable proof that chocolate fixes all problems. In hindsight I think I was on some kind of weird euphoric high on making it to that camp. I had been so sure I wouldn’t make it that the relief was more than palpable.
After chilling out for a while we were taken over to see the Shira caves. These weren’t exactly what we’d expected! We were anticipating a short walk (20-30 mins or so) out to a cave system. It was actually five minutes to one little cave hiding in the rocks! But it was still worth the visit. This cave was one of the places where the guides and porters used to sleep before the welfare of the climbing teams became more regulated and they had to sleep in tents.
There is a sign up at the cave forbidding people from sleeping in it. We were hurried back over to the camp to meet our team. The sky was still clear at this point, and the views phenomenal. I’d guess that the majority of my photos were taken here….including my favourite one when a tiny bird landed on the plant I was photographing. Bloody exhibitionists!
Meeting the team was an incredible experience. Ahhh…someone in the pub just shouted ‘oooh an aubergine’. They were all assembled (all 53ish) by the camp and singing some of the traditional songs of Kili. The Kilimanjaro song (which seems to be a general song sung with different lyrics all over Tanzania depending on what you are doing…but always including ‘hakuna matata’) was stuck in most people’s heads for days…I don’t know if it was just me who failed entirely to grasp 90% of the lyrics. We were introduced to the whole team based on their ‘department’ – ie cooks, guides, porters, water fetchers etc. 53 of them to get the 20 of us up the mountain! They all came round and greeted each of us in turn, some with handshakes, some with hugs and most with high fives. Then we were joining in singing with them and all dancing together…I had a nice little dance with Gabrielle (it was a little awkward / weird – but I had his hat to make small talk over!).
Some of the evening’s fun can be seen here: http://youtu.be/REJW4Gn36nI
We passed the rest of the time until dinner buggering about at camp taking about a billion photos each at sunset. This was a pretty amazing sunset. It reached number two in my favourite sunsets ever. Number one was on a very odd Wednesday evening in Northern Ireland overlooking the ocean. Impressive photographic evidence available on request. This night the sun sank down behind ‘the Cathedral’ – all that is left of the sides of Shira, the oldest (and lowest) of Kili’s three volcanic cones.
You couldn’t really ask for a more spectacular spot to camp. There was a thick sea of cloud miles down below us in the valley, with Meru peeking through in the distance and Kibo was lit up beautifully in the last few minutes of daylight before the sun sank behind the Cathedral, leaving the jaggard peaks in shadow and mist. Misty mountain! Yay!
After dinner (I made another fairly lacking attempt at eating) it was pitch black outside and the milkyway was even brighter than the night before. Miss Farrow got a bit upset when I jumped in to answer Joe’s question about said pretty lights in the sky. I shouldn’t steal the astrophysics from the scientist.
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